Breakfast was a completive hunting exercise that saw four poor Australians battling a horde of Canadians first for land rights over the small number of breakfast tables and then for access to the food stores - intelligently we decide that discretion is the better part of valor and patiently wait for them to let down their defenses - soon we occupied a table which we defended with true Australian grit and determination.
While the food stocks had been depleted by the Canadian hordes they were soon replaced by the dour , unsmiling local waitresses - they had seen it all before - these foreign invaders battling our for the spoils of someone else's territory.
We are in awe of this town after a great first impression and then superb food - off to the Castle that overlooks the town - the castle was the seat of the Rosenbergs and later some of the Habsbursgs.
Leave the square along very narrow cobbled lanes passed small shops and cafes - over narrow bridges spanning picturesque steams towards the castle - smile at the strange english translations - continue to wonder at the lack of smiles on the faces of the locals .
Line up for a tour of the castle - English guide arrives - actually a local - an amazing high pitch and falsely moderated voice - english tour!- you will follow me! - we follow obediently - we almost laugh aloud as she gooseteps along, arms held rigidly at her sides, shoulders slumped - how does she gooseteps silently?
Nice tour if a little rehearsed.
Outside - Bernie not well - retires to hotel - I head off on an audio tour of the environs - more narrow cobbled streets - more wonderful historu of the Rosenburgs - they eventually died out - so much inter-marriage had left the men infertile - I reflected on the poor old apothecary who had promised to deliver the last of the Rosenburgs with a potion that would solve his problem - he failed to deliver with predictable consequences.
Also wander passed the studio of Egon Schiele - he spent a deal of time here painting - the locals found that he was even too Bohemien for them - they were concerned about the young models that frequented his studio and eventually had his charged with misconduct with a minor. We later saw a lot of his painting in Vienna.
Bernie arises - we have our gin and tonic on the square - we top it off with some local cheese.
Out to dinner - Merie had met another tourist who recommended yet another restaurant - this one located in the old Jesuit building which has been turned into a hotel - all the old relics, paintings and wall hanging were still there - a very special dining environment - should not be missed even though the food was average and the wine pretty bad.
We arise early the next morning - Bernie was anxious to see the Castle garden - again a wonderful stroll in the early morning through the cobbled streets, up and behind the castle - up some steep stairs and ramps to the garden - very nice - great views of the town - stroll back through the castle - pause again to look out over the town - wander back to the hotel for breakfast - those dammed Canadians had realized our mettle and crept away in the night - we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and marveled at the majesty and beauty of this little town.
Here are the photos on Picassa - click on the photo to see the whole set.
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| Cesky |










